Pigeons are found is almost every community in America. The population in Fairbanks
has grown overtime. It is quite amazing that these birds have been able to adapt to the
climate conditions. They do this by finding protective sites to roast such as open attics
and the eaves of heated buildings. Naturally pigeons are grain and seed feeders, but they
will also feed on garbage, livestock manure and insects, when food is scare. A major
food source is provided by individuals in our community that feed pigeons as a form of
recreation. Initially this may appear to be a good idea. But with a growing population of
pigeons comes the threat of diseases.
Diseases carried by Pigeons
Pigeon carry diseases that can be transmitted to humans and other animals. They also
cause conditions that encourage growth of disease organisms. Bacterial, fungal,
protozoa, and viral infections can be transmitted. In reviewing literature I found over 40
diseases that can be associated with pigeons. The skin parasites of pigeons, including
mites, fleas, ticks and bugs, may bite people or cause an itchy red rash. These birds also
carry diseases, which can be passed on to other domestic birds and wild birds such as
falcons. A bird of prey feeding on these feral birds can become sick. One way to protect
animal and human health is by controlling these pest birds.
Pigeon droppings
The droppings of pigeons are very alkaline and not only smell bad, but will damage
buildings. As manure accumulates over time, it attracts household pest, such as larder
beetles. Beetles will feed on the droppings in attics and when food supplies get low
move through light fixtures and other openings into the house.
Control Methods
If pigeons have decided to pick your home as an over wintering locations you have
several options for control starting with repellents and exclusion. Use a repellent to get
the pigeons to move to a new location. The most common repellent used is naphthalene
flakes (more commonly known as Moth Balls). As the flakes dissolve and evaporate they
produce a strong odor that repels pigeons. The flakes can be spread on the attic floor at a
rate of 5 pounds per 2000 square feet.
After the birds have moved to a new location, block access to indoor roosts and nesting
sites. Openings to steeples, vents, eaves and attics should be blocked with wood or heavy
screens. Porcupine wires can be put on ledges as a repellent. They are composted of
several sharp prongs. These sharp pointed wires inflict temporary discomfort and cause
pigeons to avoid landing on these surfaces.
Repellents and exclusion get rid of your problem but pass it on to someone else. There
are poisons that may be used only by a certified applicator. With some poisons you have
to worry about the flesh of animals killed with poison being toxic to other organisms that
may feed on the dead birds.
Trapping
If you wish to reduce the number of pigeons in the community, trapping may be a option.
Traps can be easily be built with 2 by 2's and poultry netting or chicken wire. Four to
five birds left in the trap will serve as a decoy to lure more pigeons into the trap. Decoy
birds should be provided with food, water and shelter. Traps must be tended daily and
moved to different locations to remain effective. The Alaska Cooperative Extension has
planned available for individuals interested in building a trap. We also have publications,
which explain the health hazards associated with these birds.

Managing Bird Pests of Fruit Grown in the Foothills
Prepared by: Lynn Wunderlich, Farm Advisor, UC Cooperative Extension-
El Dorado & Amador Co.


Introduction. Several bird species can be severe pests of fruit grown commercially in the
foothills. Most damage is caused by birds feeding on ripening fruit, making it unmarketable, but
species such as house finches and crowned sparrows may also invade orchards to feed on fruit
buds during the dormant season or just prior to bloom, also decreasing yield. Bird damage can
be particularly severe in the foothill-growing environment, where many orchards and vineyards
are adjacent to wild or brushy areas where birds find refuge, breeding sites and other sources of
food.

To effectively manage birds and prevent damage, it is important for growers to:
  •  Identify the primary bird pest species,
  •  Understand their legal status and restrictions,
  •  Monitor bird activity for correct timing of control strategies, and
  • Employ the control options in the most effective manner.
Pest Species
Common bird pest species in stone fruits include: crowned sparrow, starling, crow, house finch,
scrub jay, and yellow-billed magpie. Attached is Table 3.1 from UC Publication 3389,
Integrated Pest Management for Stone Fruits, listing the description, legal status and control
options for these species in stone fruits.
In vineyards, the house finch and starling are the primary bird pests. Starlings in particular have a
voracious appetite for grapes so even small flocks can do considerable damage. Other birds
occasionally damage grapes and some are protected under law. California quail, Western
bluebird, and scrub jay are among species found in vineyards but often are there for the cover
and nesting sites.

Monitoring
Monitoring is important since once birds are established and used to feeding in a vineyard or
orchard they are more difficult to control. Therefore, control strategies should be employed
early, at the first sign of bird activity. It is much easier to monitor movement of birds than actual
bird damage. This is particularly true of bud damage that may go unnoticed until bloom. To
monitor, look for movement of birds into or within the orchard, especially during early morning.
Monitoring is especially important as grapes or stone fruit reach maturity. House finches may be
monitored by observing places they congregate before entering the orchard or vineyard such as
along rivers, in windbreaks and weedy areas and on power lines.
Bird counts can help on decision-making for control and whether controls are being effective.
When birds move into an orchard from an adjacent habitat, records of species, counts, location
and date can be useful for planning control.

Legal Status
Once a bird pest species has been identified it is important to check with the local Agricultural
Commissioner on the legal status and restrictions for that species before employing control
options. For example, Starlings are classified as nongame birds that may be killed at any time
without Federal restrictions, but House Finches are classified as migratory nongame birds and
can only be controlled with a depredation permit from the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service or
under the supervision of the County Agricultural Commissioner.

Control Methods
Frightening. Noisemakers (cracker shells, propane exploders and electronic devices) and visual
repellents are the primary means of controlling bird damage in stone fruits and may also be
effective for controlling starlings in vineyards. Frightening devices have only given short-term
results for controlling house finches in vineyards. The best methods employ a combination of
noisemakers that are rotated on a weekly basis.

Stationary noisemakers are most effective if at least one device per every 5 acres is used and
elevated above the plant canopy. Starlings are particularly difficult to frighten once established
and so the devices should be in place and operating before damage occurs. Placement is critical:
ensure that the sound carries over the vines or trees and that all areas are protected. Move the
devices every 3-5 days so that the birds will take longer to get used to them. Starlings acclimate
rapidly to sounds so the frequency that the sound goes off and the location the sound is generated
should be changed often. Shooting cracker shells can reinforce stationary noisemakers.
Roving patrols that fire shell crackers, bird bombs or whistler bombs are most effective in
frightening birds from orchards.

Distress calls and biosonics may be effective for starlings, which are a vocal species, however,
these types of noisemakers have not been proven effective for most other vineyard bird pests
(Taber and Martin, 1998). Some distress calls may actually attract birds to the area in an attempt
to locate the supposed predator.

Visual repellents such as large “scare-eye” balloons or mylar streamers should be attached to
poles so that they are above the plant canopy and used in combination with noisemakers to
increase effectiveness.

A suggested strategy for a frightening program is as follows:
Week 1: Patrol orchard firing cracker shells.
Week 2: Propane exploders.
Week 3: Propane exploders and patrol orchard firing cracker shells.
Week 4: Electronic noisemakers and visual repellents near trees where damage is most severe.

Trapping. Well-planned trapping can be effective for controlling house finches in vineyards
and starlings, especially if conducted over a large area. For house finches and crowned
sparrows, trapping must be conducted under the supervision of the County Agricultural Commissioner.

The modified Australian crow trap is the most effective trap and details of its use are given in the
California Dept. of Food and Ag. Vertebrate Pest Control Handbook, listed in the references.
Starlings are relatively easy to trap with this trap or with converted cotton trailers. These traps
work best with live decoy birds inside and a desirable food placed in the trap and on the entrance
board. Decoy birds need to be supplied ample food, water and shelter to be kept healthy. If a
trap with live decoy birds does not catch starlings within a week it should be relocated.
Trapping should be carried out by someone experienced with the technique. It is usually
ineffective with larger migrant flocks later in the season. Trapping may also fall short of many
growers’ standards and expectations for the elusive “quick fix”. Most trapping programs are not
feasible for growers either because of public relations or the lack of available qualified personnel
to implement the program successfully (Taber and Martin, 1998).
Netting. Birds can be excluded from grapes and backyard fruit trees by the use of ฝ to ผ-inch
mesh plastic netting. This is not practical for commercial orchards but there have been recent
innovations with using netting effectively in vineyards. A grower’s general management
practices including irrigation, cover crop, disease and insect control can be affected by the use of
netting, however, so planning is important.

Cost of the netting and labor may be significant factors, depending on the benefit received due to
the amount of bird pest pressure. A cost of roughly $350/acre has been estimated (Taber and
Martin, 1998), and reusable netting with a 5-7 year life expectancy is now available. The
reusable netting is more expensive initially but over time can reduce the cost below $100/acre.
For row application, the netting can be applied two basic ways. Most growers unroll the net the
length of the row and then lift it in sections, placing it on the top of the vines. It is then spread
down the sides of the canopy and either allowed to touch the ground or fastened underneath to
prevent birds from entering from below. The use of row application equipment is also an option.
This equipment requires the use of a tractor and is less labor intensive.
Repellents. Chemical repellents’ effectiveness have not been proven for starlings and have
given sporadic results for control of other bird pests. Furthermore, fruit treated with chemical
repellents may not be marketable (many wineries will not accept fruit treated with such
chemicals) and the economics of this type of control may not be feasible. Also, a variety of
factors, including the availability of alternate food sources, can influence the effectiveness of
chemical control.

Habitat Modification. Some bird populations such as house finches can be reduced by
eliminating nesting and loafing sites such as large brush piles, stacks of irrigation pipe, and piles
of boxes. However, given the proximity of the wild to agriculture in the foothills, eliminating all
habitat is obviously not possible. In addition, birds such as starlings can fly up to 60 miles to
find food.

Concluding Remarks. Bird damage is a growing concern for foothill fruit growers. Present
day California supports an impressive and imposing resident population of birds such as nonnative
starlings that can be severely damaging if not managed. Growers need to identify their
primary bird pest species and understand their biology in order to choose the legal and most
appropriate control measures. Effective bird control requires investment of time, money and
effort and the sole use of one approach or one piece of equipment may not result in effective
control.

References
Grape Pest Management. University of California Statewide Integrated Pest Management
Project. Division of Agriculture and Natural Resources. Publication 3343.
Integrated Pest Management for Stone Fruits. 1999. University of California Statewide
Integrated Pest Management Project. Division of Agriculture and Natural Resources.
Publication 3389.
The Use of Netting as a Bird Management Tool in Vineyards. 1998. Michael R. Taber and Lee R.
Martin. Proceedings of the 18th Vertebrate Pest Conference, R.O. Baker and A.C. Crabb, Editors.
Published at the University of California, Davis.
Vertebrate Pest Control Handbook. 1986. J. P. Clark. California Department of Food and
Agriculture, Division of Plant Industry.

Canada Goose Quick Facts
Height/Weight
22" to 48"
3-4 lbs. to 24lbs.

Life Span
Generally 10-25 years; some instances 40+

Flight Speed
20 to 55mph

Range
All fifty states
rural to urban areas

Food
Graze on marsh grass, pond weeds, new grain and corn

Habitat
Grassy fields near water



By definition, Canada geese are not classified as pest birds and are afforded protection by Federal & State agencies. Nonetheless, Canada Geese are increasingly becoming the scourge of suburbia as their numbers have grown in the past decade from only a few thousand to hundreds of thousands of these birds. In fact, the familiar V shaped squadron of honking geese heading south is becoming a rare sight. Country Clubs and business parks offer pristinely manicured lawns and ponds providing an ideal habitat and effectively modifying their migration cycle. Geese are very opportunistic and easily exploit the new 'easy living' conditions found in an urban environment.
  Damage
Geese can cause damage to agricultural crops year round, either by trampling or consumption. Aesthetic damage to suburban lawns, golf courses, etc., is incalculable. Geese are also a health hazard- fouling reservoirs and ponds. A larger threat is air safety. Geese are one of the main birds involved in airline bird strikes worldwide.

Control

Non-migratory Canada geese are difficult to remove. Once established, immediate corrective landscaping and behavioral modification is imperative: Remove cover shrubbery; use herbicides to eliminate aquatic vegetation; and reduce fertilizer, especially around pond area, to make grass less nutritionally attractive. Several visual scare products like the Goose Guard and Flash Tape combined with ReJeX-iT taste deterrent should be employed as soon as the birds enter the area, varying in location and type. For more established flocks audio scare devices like Zon Guns, Scare Streamers, the Bird-Gard or Bird Squawker units that project a variety of sounds through several speaker locations in a random pattern should be set up at strategically placed intervals. All systems require constant re-enforcement and should be relocated frequently, especially the Goose Guard units to remain a convincing threat to the birds. Physical barriers such as overhead Gridwire & 4" mesh StealthNet can be extremely effective barriers but are site specific. These grids can be installed above water surface to prevent landing. Fencing made of Gridwire (.96mm) provides a discrete barrier to dissuade geese from entering property (especially from water areas) and can be electrified for increased effectiveness. Wire fencing applications should begin approximately 1’ off the ground with successive strands approximately 1’ above the last to a height of at least three feet. Four inch mesh StealthNet with 1/2” reflective Flash Tape hanging from it can also be utilized above and around ponds and grassy areas.


Nesting
Nesting sites are typically near water with protective vegetation in close proximity. Planter boxes on high rise office building balconies in campus like settings are quickly becoming a nesting site of choice. Geese are extremely aggressive, posting sentinels at nesting and grazing sites. Defense of nests can many times result in injury to people or pets who venture too close.

Breeding
Female geese usually lay one egg every other day during the 25 day spring mating season. The nest is abandoned a few days after hatching. Canada geese are monogamous for life, but will re-mate upon the death of their mate.

Cycles
Non-migratory or residential geese, once established, prefer feeding at the nesting site, but will often fly long distances to and from favorite feeding grounds. Some feeding may occur during moonlit nights.


Gull
Quick Facts

Height/Weight
18”-26”/25oz-38oz

Life Span
8-10 years in the
wild and up to 30 years in captivity

Flight Speed
15 to 38 mph

Range
Near large
waterways

Food
Scavenger –
eats fish, crab, insects, forages at dumps, harbors and waste sites

Habitat
On the ground
along safe,
secluded areas


Gulls and other related sea birds exist in great numbers along coastal areas, large lakes and rivers. A subset of long winged swimming birds, there are 45 species of Gulls. Twenty species are resident (nesting) in North America and four are visitors (non-nesting). An intelligent bird, they will carry mussels and clams high in the air and drop them on hard surfaces to get to the soft meat inside. Gulls have the ability to drink saltwater and freshwater, thanks to a pair of salt removing glands above their nostrils. They are good swimmers who can walk or run agilely on land. Gulls are scavenging birds; they will eat everything from dead fish and garbage to field mice and insects. Gulls enjoy protection at the federal, state and local levels.

Damage
Gulls can be a nuisance in coastal areas, particularly at dump sites, piers and harbors. Flocks of gulls often create hazardous conditions to low flying aircraft. Large buildup of droppings will lead to structural damage from the uric acid. Boats, streetlights and buildings are just a few of the items damaged from excessive gull droppings. Furthermore, their droppings can also pose a health risk.

Control
Gridwire systems and large 4" mesh StealthNet will deny access to large open areas.Bird-Flite spikes, 5" Bird Coil, and Bird-Shock electrical track are very effective on ledges depending on the level of bird pressure. The Daddi Long Legs is a great product to dissuade gulls from landing on silos, street lights, A/C units & large flat rooftops. For feeding sites such as dumps, a wide variety of audio/visual products like the Avikite or Flying OspreyZon Guns, Bird Bombs and Bird Bombs and Screamers, or and noisemakers like
high tech multiple and random sound distress call units like the Bird-Gard, Squawker or BirdWailer units should be combined with exclusionary products such as Gridwire systems or 4" StealthNet.


Nesting
Gulls build basic nests on the ground in safe open areas. The nest often consists of grass, seaweed and some sticks. They nest in colonies on sandy or gravely areas near the shore.


Breeding
These birds have one brood a year with an average of three eggs. Incubation takes 20 to 24 days with a six week fledgling period before the young leave the nest. The eggs are brown, green or blue with blotches of black, brown or gray.

Cycles
Some species are migratory. Gulls need open water and secluded breeding areas. Because of this, Northern Gulls will fly south away from frozen lakes and rivers in the winter, while southern gulls stay put year round. They have a distinct springtime breeding season. The young take two years to mature and display adult plumage.

Starling Quick Facts
Height/Weight
7.5”-8.5”/2-3oz

Life Span
5 to 7 yrs
in the wild
up to 13 captivity

Flight Speed
18 to 40 mph

Range
Across country
rural to urban areas in increasing numbers

Food
Insects, wild fruit seeds and grain

Habitat
Trees and building structures



Like the house sparrow, the starling was introduced from Europe in the 19th century. It did not spread as fast and only reached the western coast within the last few decades. Starlings are well adapted to urban life which offer it an abundance of food and nesting sites. It is a muscular bird about eight inches long with long wings and a short squared tail. Starlings are very aggressive and will drive native birds out of their territory, much to the dismay of local bird watchers. Starlings are well noted for their flocking habits. They often gather in the tens of thousands, creating a nuisance when roosting in populated areas.


 Damage
Starlings rank just behind pigeons and sparrows as an urban bird pest. Starlings can be a nuisance in both urban and rural areas due to their nesting, eating and living habits. When the bird is in its flocking phase, thousands of starlings often overwhelm buildings and trees. Large scale buildup of feces from these flocks can lead to structural damage. The uric acid in the feces can corrode stone, metal and masonry. Gutters and drainage pipes clogged with starling nests often backup, causing extensive water damage. The bacteria, fungal agents and parasites in the feces also pose a health risk.


Control
Starlings roosting habits can be modified permanently using 1-1/8" mesh StealthNet and/or electrical systems like Bird-Shock. For large flocks or agricultural applications, these birds can be moved with a well-timed, organized scare campaign using strategically placed sophisticated audio systems like the Bird Wailer, Squawker, or the Bird-Gard units depending on the size of the area. These products combine natural and electronic sounds like species specific distress calls, predator hunting/attack sequences and canon or shotgun sounds. Other noisemakers such as Zon Guns and Bird Bombs  Screamers often have success in relocating these bird when combined with lights and visual frightening devices that flash such as Flash Tape, Scare Eye Balloons or Octopus. A new technique that has found some success for moving populations from trees is to fog problem areas with ReJeX-iT.


Nesting
The Starling is a nesting bird. Their nests are in enclosed areas with at least a 1-1/2 inch opening. Look for their nests in old trees, church steeples and other holes and crevices. Due to their bullying nature they will take any suitable site, evicting any previous owner. They sometimes watch other birds build a complete nest before forcing them to leave.


Breeding
Starlings have two broods a year with four to five eggs a brood. They average eight offspring a year. The eggs are white, pale blue or green-white. Incubation of the eggs takes twelve days. The fledglings leave the nest after 25 days. The young leave to join other juveniles and form huge flocks that move on to other territories.

Cycles
Not a true migrating bird, starlings may move from rural trees to warm city buildings in winter. The daily cycle is one of leaving the nest at sunrise to travel up to sixty miles to feeding areas before returning for the evening. They disperse to mate in the spring. After mating season, they will often coalesce into huge flocks with defined feeding and roosting areas

Sparrow Quick Facts
Height/Weight
5”-6”/1oz

Life Span
1-2 years in the wild up to 10 captivity

Flight Speed
5 to 39 mph

Range
Across country rural to urban areas

Food
Seeds, grains insects and fruits

Habitat
Trees and building structures



The House sparrow is the number two urban pest bird. Introduced as a species to North America, the house sparrow quickly spread across the country due to its lack of natural enemies and its adaptive traits. Its ability to nest in urban structures, eat urban scraps and a large breeding capacity are some of these adaptive traits. The House Sparrow is actually a member of the weaverbird family and not a true Sparrow. Weaverbirds create intricate nests and relative to their size, the largest nests in the bird world. Their legs and toes are favored for branch perching and their short conical bills are ideal for seed cracking. Their diet consists of seeds and grain, as well as fruits, vegetables, human table scraps and insects. They are boisterous, intelligent birds who roost in noisy flocks on branches of city trees, ivy covered walls and under eaves of houses.


 Damage
House Sparrows are often a nuisance in urban areas like manufacturing and food processing plants. Gutters and drainage pipes clogged with sparrow nests can backup and cause extensive water damage and fires have been attributed to electrical shorts casued by machinery housing sparrow nests. Lastly, feces buildup can lead to structural damage from the uric acid in droppings, plus the bacteria, fungal agents and parasites in the feces also pose a health risk.

Control

The most effective method of control is to exclude sparrows from the area with 3/4" StealthNet, making sure there are no gaps or crevices for the birds to pass through. The only ledge deterrent systems that are truly effective against sparrows are electrified ledge systems that use an intermittent pulse like Bird-Shock. New 2-chambered
Sparrow Traps are quite effective at trapping small quantities of sparrows. The best trap has an elevated second chamber that keeps the birds happy and so content that they actually sing, attracting others to the trap. When practical, the trapping program should be combined with a nest removal program that will greatly reduce the population over time. Along with trapping, mist nets can be installed in the flight paths by certified personnel to capture these birds in enclosed areas. A new technique that has found some success for moving populations is to fog problem areas with ReJeX-iT. This method is most commonly applied when sparrows gather in flocks. Sparrows generally do not react to audio and visual products except occasionally in areas to which they are not very committed (new to area).

Nesting
They build large nests relative to size which function as the center of all activity. They prefer small enclosed places such as house shutters, drainage piping, building rafters and corrugated metal siding. They will build a spherical nest in a tree or another exposed place if they have no other option. The building material will be sticks, with an inside lining of grass, string, fabrics or straw. The nest will often hold several families.

Breeding
House sparrows only mate for a season. They average three broods per mating season with each brood containing four to seven eggs with 20 offspring a year average. Egg coloration will be white, pale blue or pale green with a few gray or brown dots. If unchecked, a breeding pair can grow to over 2,000 birds in two to three years.

Cycles
House Sparrows are not migratory, but in cold climates can show movement between rural/suburban breeding sites and warmer winter roosting sites in the city. House Sparrows are aggressive birds and will often force out other birds from their territories. They are flocking birds and will gather in the thousands to take over feeding and roosting areas.

Pigeon Quick Facts
Height/Weight
12”-15”/10oz-16oz

Life Span
3-4 years in the wild up to 16 captivity

Flight Speed
28 to 82 mph

Range
All fifty states Urban/ Suburban areas

Food
Widely varied, grains, seeds, corn human food scraps

Habitat
Protected ledges and roof-tops



The feral pigeon is the number one urban pest bird. Large numbers exist in every city across the country. Not a native bird, feral pigeons are descendants of domestic homing pigeons brought over from Europe and released here in the 1600s. They were domesticated from the wild rock doves from the sea cliffs of Europe by the Romans over two thousand years ago. Several traits have allowed them to dominate the urban landscape. Because of their history, pigeons are not afraid of people; they roost and nest readily in man made structures and they have a diverse diet. The standard pigeon has a short neck with a small head. Their short legs with the level front and hind toes allow them to perch on branches as well as walk on flat surfaces.


 Damage
Feral pigeons are responsible for untold millions of dollars of damage each year in urban areas. The uric acid in their feces is highly corrosive. Also, debris from roosting flocks can build up, backing up gutters and drains thus causing damage to roofs and other structures. Extensive damage to air conditioning units and other roof top machinery is commonplace. There are also other economic costs that can be associated from pigeon’s taking up residence such as slip and fall liability and projection of an unclean, dirty company image. Besides physical damage, the bacteria, fungal agents and ectoparasites found in pigeon droppings sometimes represent a health risk.

Contro
l
There are a wide variety of solutions available for handling a pigeon infestation. The best solution for pigeon problems, is complete exclusion with a 2" mesh StealthNet. Many ledge problems can be solved by using products such as BirdCoil, Birdwire, Bird-Flite spikes, as well as Bird-Shock electrical track. When bird pressure is heavy in an area, exclusion work must be accompanied by flock dispersal methods like trapping or use of moving predator effigies like the Rotating Screech Owl. Flock dispersal alone is not a long term solution especially in medium-heavy pressure situations like when there are food/water/shelter sources at the site.


Nesting

Nest building is very simple and often consists of a few stiff twigs. The male will pick the site. They prefer small flat areas away from the ground. Look for nests along building ledges, bridge supports, air conditioning units, window sills and the like. In crowded flocks, pigeons will even forgo nest building and lay eggs directly on a protected ledge.


Breeding

Pigeons are monogamous and a mating pair will typically have three or four broods a year. The female will usually lay two or sometimes three eggs at a time. The eggs are a solid bright white color. The eggs take roughly 18 days to hatch and 35 more days before the fledglings leave the nest.

Cycles
Pigeons are not migratory. Their natural instinct is to stay near their birth site. This trait gives the pigeon a very determined personality when it comes to roosting at a particular site, much to the dismay of the inexperienced pest control technician. The daily cycle of a pigeon is to roost at night, feed in the morning and loaf in the afternoon. The seasonal cycle is as follows; courtship in the early winter, nest building in late winter and breeding in the spring. However, in warm climates, breeding will occur year round. Pigeons molt once a year in late summer.

Author : Nicholas Tan

If you are lucky enough to have a cherry tree in your yard, I am sure I don’t need to tell you how much enjoyment can comerewarding experience in itself. Looking out your back window and seeing a magnificent, glorious cherry tree is also rewarding. Most people are impressed just by the fact that you have a cherry tree, because they are usually thought of by non-gardeners as some sort of exotic plant.

But along with the joys that a cherry tree can bring, there are many annoyances. They seem to attract more unwanted creatures than any other plant in the world. Almost every day it seems like there is a new type of pestilence swarming the tree, trying to get a nibble of its delicious fruits. I can’t say I blame them, but if they want to eat delicious fruits then they should grow their own trees.

One of the main and most constant problems that most people deal with is birds eating the fruit off the tree. It can seem almost impossible to get rid of this pest. After all, they can come in from any angle and make a quick getaway with the cherries. Or they can sit undetected in the branches and munch away all day. A bird certainly has its versatility on its side. Those little guys can be a real hassle to catch or repel. However, there are several different ways you can deter the birds from your house.

The most used way of repelling birds is to place a plastic owl within the vicinity of the house. If you find any animal that usually eats birds and purchase a plastic version, usually real birds will be instinctual enough to avoid it. These can include snakes, owls hawks, or scarecrows (OK, maybe they don’t eat birds normally. But they sure scare the birds for some reason). Most of the time you can purchase these at your local gardening  store. If you want a different version or a more lifelike representation, if you look online then you’re sure to find something that will work.

If you get a plastic animal of some sort, usually it will cure the bird problem for a while. However, some birds are just really brave (or really stupid) and will continue to eat from your tree. Almost any reflective surface or noisy object will prevent the birds from coming too close. I personally like to use reflective tape designed for scaring birds. You can purchase this at any gardening store. I usually use this in combination with a large assortment of wind chimes for maximum scaring. Once you have a plastic animal along with reflective items and noisy items, almost all birds will be too terrified to even go close.

While airborne creatures might take a little more than their share of fruit, you should still consider leaving one tree exclusively for them. While they might seem like a pest sometimes, birds can be the one thing that livens up your garden. If you’re used to having birds and then all of a sudden you’ve scared them all away, you’ll feel like there is something missing from your yard. Something that, on the inside, you truly loved all along. from them. Just eating the delicious cherries that spawned from your tree is a

 Author: Andrew Lawrence

 It's not just nice for you to have birds visit your garden, it is also good for your garden as well, the reason is that most varieties of garden birds have a great appetite for insect pests that populate your garden and cause harm to your plants and shrubs.

If you want to make your garden bird friendly and attract birds to your garden you have to consider the following things.

Plants
A good selection of native plants and shrubs with things like berries, and big seed heads will tempt the birds to come and feed.

Trees and Hedges
If you have the space some native trees and hedge line will provide natural nesting sites.

Nesting Boxes
If you have a smaller garden you can build or buy some nesting boxes in different sizes to provide a home for a nesting bird.

Water
Garden birds will also need a water source, so a bird bath is a perfect addition, if you don't have one a large shallow saucer left on a patio  will also provide a great place for birds to drink, bathe and splash around in. Ponds are also a good source of water for birds and it also attracts insects for them to feed on.

Food
Obviously its important to leave food out for your birds, this is the biggest factor for attracting birds to your garden, a stable bird table is great for offering nuts, seeds and fat balls to the birds. Squirrel proof hanging bird feeder are great of feeding the birds, its also very entertaining watching them pecking out the seeds.
While we're on the subject of bird feeders can I ask you to please not buy the bird food in plastic netting that you can buy from market stalls and some supermarkets, these are very dangerous for small birds as they can get trapped in the netting and can break their legs very easily and even loose them all together. Some bird species have hooked tongues and can also become trapped in these net feeders. If you lean one thing from this article please remember this, it can save your garden birds a whole lot of suffering, and there are so many great bird feeder designs you wont have a shortage to choose from.

So, the simple rule for attracting birds to your garden is to provide what they are naturally looking for in the wild, give them a safe place to feed and they will return time and again. Enjoy it!

Author: Fran Prisco

“Shock” System Rids Subway of Pest Pigeons

New York Transit Authority uses Shock Track System by Bird-B-Gone, Inc. to rid subway platforms of unwanted, and unsanitary pest pigeons in Queens.

Assemblyman Jose Peralta celebrated the completion of the project in Queens that will deter pigeons from occupying a local subway station.

Peralta says, “ We need to protect our children, the children who walk up and down these streets, that take the trains, that use the system, are very vulnerable at times.”

The children, in this case, are vulnerable to the pigeons that for years have made the 103rd street station their home. Pigeons not only create unsightly messes, but their feces carries diseases that threaten the health of the children.

“People have been hit by the feces as they are walking,” said Peralta. “Where they have been walking with their children, the children have also been hit. They’ve been afraid to touch the feces because they were afraid that it may be hazardous to their health.”

Peralta helped secure some state funding to purchase and install electrified strips, made by Bird-B-Gone, Inc. When the pigeons touch the strips, they get a mild “Shock” that changes their nesting and roosting behaviors, keeping them off of the subway platform. The strips have been installed throughout the 103rd Street Station.

“We’re proud to be serving the Metropolitan Transportation Authority and in essence the people of New York City,” said Bruce Donoho owner of Bird-B-Gone, Inc. located in Mission Viejo, CA.

Bird-B-Gone, Inc. manufactures hundreds of different products used to humanely move pest birds away from Human Sensitive areas.

The MTA say they will incorporate the system into all future station renovations on the elevated lines.

Author : Andy Asbury

Once a domesticated bird, roosting on rocky cliffs and protective ledges, the pigeon has evolved, now seeking refuge in today's busy cities. It has become one of the most common bird pests, lofting no longer on desolate stone bluffs, but on city balconies, window ledges and billboards.

Pigeons mate for life and are an extremely fertile bird; it's not uncommon for a pair to produce over ten baby pigeons each year. These squabs may begin mating as early as four months and tend to roost in the same area. With very few predators, and plenty of food, you can imagine how quickly they multiply.

With this increased population comes the inevitable mess from bird droppings. Pigeon feces is responsible for millions of dollars in property damage as well as posing serious health risks. It's a common carrier of serious diseases including encephalitis, salmonella and host for parasites such as fleas and ticks.

Managing These Pests

There are a number of methods available to control these pesky birds. Before you undertake any of these methods, be sure to clean the infected area thoroughly, removing all traces of their droppings.

I've listed some of the more popular systems for warding off pigeons, and you'll see that prevention is the most effective way to deal with these pests. Some frustrated residents may be tempted to poison or use other methods to kill the birds. Not only is this not an eco-friendly solution, but the methods can create adverse reactions from neighboring tenants. Moreover, the depleted population automatically attracts more birds looking for vacant spots to roost.

Don't Give Them a Reason to Stay!

Many times pigeons are encouraged take up residence by well meaning condo residents who insist on feeding them. This practice ensures you'll have unwelcomed feathered guests for life, complete with their babies and subsequent generations.

Visual and Audio Deterrents

Items such as owls, snakes, and ultra sonic signals are fairly cheap, but tend to have only temporary success. Once the birds figure out that the predator is not a threat, they will ignore it. Other audio signals include distress calls of startled or injured birds, and although this works with some species, it is not effective against pigeons.

Mechanical Barriers

These are available in a variety of shapes and sizes including spikes, and rounded coil shapes. They work well deterring pigeons, but not smaller birds such as starlings or sparrows. They require regular cleaning as they tend to trap debris.

Electric Devices

These are grounded, low-amp systems that repel birds with a pulsating shock. They are can be very effective, but can be expensive to install and may require maintenance.

Post and Wire

This inconspicuous and inexpensive system has been used in Europe for over 20 years. Stainless steel wire is attached to posts at differing intervals which deter birds from landing. It's effective against pigeons and gulls, but not starlings or sparrows.

Bird Netting

Netting works well to deter all species of birds, it's inexpensive, and almost invisible in appearance. This is an excellent first choice when bird-proofing an area.

Author : Elaine Yetzer Simon

Birds can be nuisances and health hazards at hotels--inside and out--just as easily as ants, cockroaches and bed bugs.
"Depending on the layout of the hotel, birds can sometimes find their way inside," said Frank Meek, national pest control technical manager for Orkin. "Hotels with large lobbies or atriums are more prone to this kind of situation."
Birds also can make their way into hotels through loading docks, delivery areas, balconies and areas that are under construction.
"It can be a huge issue if left unattended," said Mike McGuinness, technical director for pest prevention for Steritech. "Some birds will nest on the inside if they can exit easily to obtain food. Sometimes interior restaurants provide enough food, and the birds don't need to go outside."

And even if birds don't get inside, they still can cause a host of problems for hotels and guests just by hanging around entrances, balconies and outdoor dining areas. One of the biggest problems birds create is a result of what they leave behind.
"The worst is from the droppings," said Mona Zemsky, marketing manager for Bird-X. "When they start to pile up and dry, the fecal dust can be extremely dangerous. You can get more than 60 diseases from breathing dried bird feces."


Some of the worst offenders are starlings, sparrows, swallows, finches, grackles, geese, pigeons and sea gulls.
"What happens a lot of times is birds become comfortable outside the facility, on ledges, lights, etc.," said Cameron Riddell, president of Bird Barrier America. "When they become comfortable, they become more adventuresome. They look for where else they can go--where is there food, where is there warmth?"
Cleaning the area around a hotel can keep birds away.
"Birds tend to become established in the area if poor sanitation exists on the exterior, such as feeding out of open [trash bins] or nesting in overgrown vegetation around the building," McGuinness said.
Products that help repel birds include metal or plastic spikes and sticky gel. These products are placed on ledges, windowsills or roof edges--anywhere birds like to roost.
"Because you've made the area undesirable, they will find someplace else to roost--hopefully down the block," Zemsky said.
Sound machines are another way to repel birds.
"To birds, it sounds like a bird in distress, and therefore, it isn't a safe place for them to go," Zemsky said. "To humans, the sound comes on every 30 minutes or so, and it just sounds like birds. It's a very natural sound, and often people don't even notice it.
Ultrasonic sound machines produce a sound that is above human hearing range. Riddell said netting and electrified tracks are other options.

Pest control

Author : Wines & Vines

For years netting was not considered a real option for the winegrape grower. "Too expensive", or "Too much work for too little results". Well, times have changed, and more importantly the cost of an acre's worth of Chardonnay has changed too.
Netting is now the most effective tool available for bird damage control. There are several types on the market. The grower need not go much further than a Gemplers catalog, orchard supply house, or let his fingers do the walking to find a source of netting.
Cost? Well, some are too high and some are so low you have to wonder what you're getting. Like with anything else, if it seems to good to be true, it is. Many a grower has bought into some sort of device that promises to make a noise only birds can hear, or a vibration that throws off their balance. Unfortunately, the money spent did not justify the results. Enter netting, a high-profile, high-cost, labor-intensive way to do something that seems very basic; let's take a closer look at cost and see if that's really the way it is.
Before I even start on materials I want to address labor. Labor costs are not fixed when it comes to bird netting. To a point, the more people you have, the better. Four to six people per roll is a maximum. I cannot, and will not, attempt to predict here how much people are paid and the variance from one group of workers to another with regard to netting expertise. I can tell you that with experience comes speed. Once you've installed netting it becomes much easier. Thinking about how to install the netting invariably proves to be more difficult and in some cases more time consuming than actually doing it. The best answer is to buy a small quantity of netting first, get the hang of it (no pun intended), and then go ahead with the larger project.
For the sake of this article I have created a "sample vineyard". This vineyard is 14.5 acres and contains two blocks of grapes, one with ten-foot spacing between rows and the other with twelve-foot spacing. The net in our sample vineyard will be applied directly to the canopy and allowed to touch the ground on both sides. Pricing for netting and application/retrieval equipment over a five year period follows:

14[inch] U.V.-treated netting         $207.59 per acre
17[inch] U.V.-treated netting         $230.89 per acre
17[inch] Disposable (clear) netting   $395.10 per acre
I do not need to take time here to examine the cost differences of varieties of winegrapes and compare that to the amount of money spent on netting and saved in grapes per acre. I can confidently say that the above costs per acre represent a saving of $700 to as high as $1,900 per acre. If your winegrapes are selling for $700 per ton with a yield of three tons per acre, spending $250 to $300 per acre for netting is a great way to go. I very commonly hear horror stories of the grower with 10 acres of grapes that "lost a little over four acres to the birds". That is a sad reality in this business.
Now that we have the prices let's look at some important notes. First of all the U.V.-treated netting numbers reflect a five-year life. The sun and wind don't normally kill this type of netting. The installation and especially the removal process do. That is why my numbers include equipment to help the grower with the netting. I do not have the space in this article to specifically discuss application and removal techniques; however, it needs to be said that taking care of your netting is money in the bank. The best way to take care of netting is to have good equipment to install and remove it.
Next, these numbers reflect the use of 14X5,000-foot and 17X5,000-foot U.V.-treated netting. The disposable netting is 17X20,000-foot and is clear. There are a number of nets on the market. The most important item to look at is quality relevant to price. As a netting supplier I could supply 3/4 inch mesh netting, made of knotted polyester, with a ten-year manufacturers' warranty. It is available in several widths, up to 55 feet, and any length you want. Sounds pretty good doesn't it! It will only cost you 36 cents per square foot, so let's see, that's $15,681.60 per acre. I'm sure my phone will be ringing off the hook. The point here is buy netting that is going to last but isn't going to cost someone their job if they tear it, because they will. The netting I've used costs between $650 and $850 per roll; $1,500 for the disposable. Disposable netting is great if you are willing to spend the additional money to purchase it every year. It doesn't matter what it looks like when you remove it, and it is every bit as effective as the other types of netting.
The last item I want to touch on is support system. The support system is always the most important part of any netting system. For grapes, you don't need one. The canopy works perfectly as a support system. Some trellis designs give the grower the option of netting the fruiting zone only, attaching at the sides and hanging vertically to ground level, or using the trellis wires for support. Obviously, this varies from one vineyard to another. Don't try to get over-sophisticated with netting. If you do it properly you should only need it for four to six weeks and then you'll be taking it down.

 Let me clarify that. Bird damage usually occurs when the sugar count reaches 11 [degrees]. From then until harvest, you need netting. When you remove the netting you need not wait until the morning of, or evening before harvest. Birds can't see the netting very well, it's a physical barrier not a visual one, so they won't react when you take it off. Take if off, carefully, and store it somewhere it won't get damaged. Remember it's money in the bank.

Looking at the numbers we have discussed, which are real, I can confidently say that netting is worth the hassle. In fact I would like to restate something. Putting netting up, and taking it down, is no more a hassle than maintaining equipment or ensuring proper irrigation, or any other number of seasonal necessities that make up a grapegrowers life. The perception that netting is a hassle has been with us a lot longer than the knowledge that it really isn't that difficult after all. I hope this month's column has been educational and maybe even inspired a few.

Next month, Starling and Blackbird Control.

Author:Lee Dobbins

Gardening can be a fun and relaxing hobby but if you have to constantly be worried about garden pests damaging your plants became soon turned into a source of stress.
Dumping harsh chemicals on your plants is not good for you or the environment but luckily there is a better way. You can encourage natural predators into your garden that will soon eliminate these pesky pests. These natural creatures can live in harmony in your garden where they will eat the pests that are harming your plants.
Here are some natural predators and how you might encourage them to take up residence in your garden.
Frogs
What would a garden be without some frogs and toads? They are likely attracted to your garden as it is, but you can add a few elements to attract even more of them. Since frogs and toads love water you might think of installing a garden pond, or at the very least a small water feature low to the ground that they can breed in. They will thank you by helping to control small insects and slugs.
Lady Bugs
Ladybugs love to eat aphids so you want to attract as many of them as you can into your garden. You probably recognize them as an adult with a red and black dotted shells but you might not easily recognize the lava which is gray in color with orange dots. Don't mistake the larva for a past as these lover can chow down more aphids than the adults. Ladybugs like Cosmos, scented geraniums and even dandelions so be sure to have plenty of those in your garden.
Ground Beetles
Ground beetles like to make their home under stones or leaf covers and sleep all day coming out at night to feed on garden pests. They have quite an appetite Emil Chow down slugs, snails, cutworms and leather jackets and the lava or egg stage. Some will even climb up in the trees to get a good meal and can eat gypsy moth and tent caterpillars. you can encourage these as you garden are providing permanent plantings for them to live under, loose leaf cover or small stones.
Birds
Who doesn't want birds in their garden? While these might be considered pests for some vegetables they can also read your garden of pests such as caterpillars, grubbs, slugs and aphids which they feed on. have a little bird bath in your garden as well as some nesting boxes to encourage birds into the garden where they might see a tasty grub they might want to feast on.
Lacewings
Lacewings, or the larva of lace wings feed on aphids and small soft bodied pests. To attract bees, make sure you have a water source and plant lots of nectar and pollen flowers as they like to lay their eggs underneath the leaves of these plants.
With a little bit of strategic planning, you can attract these predators into your garden which will not only help control the pests but will also add interest to the garden. Plus, it's a lot more fun to plant particular flowers and put out sources of water to attract birds, beetles and frogs into your garden than it is to drag out the sprayer hose and douse your garden with chemicals! Not only will you be getting rid of pests on your plants, you'll also be providing a food source for the predators and keeping the environment free of chemicals!

Author Fran Prisco

Bird•B•Gone, Inc. Bird Control Products keep Pest Birds off of bridges nationwide. Bird•B•Gone, is the leading manufacturer of bird control products in the US. Their products humanly deter pest birds such as
pigeons, seagulls and crows from buildings, structures, bridges, highway overpasses and other areas they like to nest and roost.

Bruce Donoho owner of Bird•B•Gone, Inc. says bridges make a perfect nesting and roosting area for birds such as pigeons. They are protected here from interference by people, predators and the elements. The droppings left behind by these birds can erode building materials such as concrete and steel. When asked how to eliminate the birds from bridges and overpasses, Donoho says you must create a physical barrier that keeps the birds from landing. This can be done with bird spikes, bird netting or even shock systems. If the birds have no where to land, they will move on to another area.

Danny Sicurella of Global Bird Management Corp. has used Bird•B•Gone products on many highway bridges throughout Illinois and Arkansas. The Illinois Department of Transportation contracted him to “Bird Proof” highway overpasses that where infested with pest birds such as pigeons and swallows. Danny says that in some cases the feces left behind by the pigeons was 3 – 4 feet deep on the concrete supports. The pigeon feces, over time, will erode the concrete and compromise the support. He used bird netting to secure the bridges from pigeons nesting and roosting. Danny says that protected birds such as swallows are also a big problem on highway overpasses. Once a protected bird takes up “home” on the bridge, it is illegal to do bridge maintenance until the bird has gone. This can really become a safety issue. Danny also used Bird•B•Gone Bird Netting to keep the swallows from making homes on these bridges.

Rob Lang of Smithereen in Chicago has bird proofed 26 viaduct/overpasses in the last 3 years. Lang states that most of the structures have had pigeons living on them for years. He says that the feces left behind is “deep and disgusting”! A large part of the project is cleaning and sanitizing the bridge before bird control products can be installed. Rob uses bird netting and bird spikes from Bird•B•Gone to keep pest pigeons from nesting and roosting on support beams.

In Dallas Texas, Gulf States Bird Control, owned and operated by Brett Mayes, has been contacted frequently to provide bird control for bridges and overpasses. Brett says that he has put in many bids but has not done any jobs. He fears that cities and transit authorities still are not aware of the importance of bird proofing bridges, not just the health risk to maintenance workers, but the structural integrity of the structures themselves.

Donoho also states that Bird•B•Gone products are keeping such bridges as the Golden Gate, Brooklyn Bridge and others bird free. Not only are we protecting the bridge infrastructure, we are also protecting the health of those who use the bridges daily.

Got birds? Absolute Bird Control is a website dedicated to providing the very best in affordable and humane bird deterrents. The site offers a full line of easy to use products that can remedy virtually any pest bird problem, and the products are designed for home use! Whether you have pigeons under an eave, geese in your yard, or sparrows nesting on a window sill, Absolute Bird Control has the right product for you!

Pest birds can be quite a nuisance. They create a mess, and can carry disease such as West Nile Virus, Avian Flu, and Histoplasmosis. It is important to address a pest bird problem as soon as one is spotted. The longer birds inhabit an area, the harder it is to get them to move on.

For years Absolute Bird Control has been dedicated to helping home owners find the best product for their pest bird problems. The customer service department is committed to educating customers on the different products available.

Recently Absolute Bird Control polled its customer service department to find out what the top ten “pest bird” questions they received were. The list below provides solutions for the most common bird problems home owners’ encounter. If you have a pest bird problem, Absolute has a solution!

1. Pigeons On a roof

Birds like the highest points on buildings for predator and food lookout. When you take away the option to land there, they will usually move on and find another spot. Pigeons or seagulls can be deterred by using the spike products. Birds know they cannot land on such a surface. An outdoor sound deterrent also works well in this situation. These units are weatherproof, and can cover large areas. Other options would be the gel repellants. Applied to the roofline, birds do not like the “sticky sensation” on their feet, and will move on. Making the area uncomfortable will be your best bet. Because it can be difficult to access a roof area, calling in a authorized pest control company may be the best way to take care of birds on a roof. To find an installer in your area, call 1-800-392-6915.

2. Small Birds nesting under and eave or canopy

An eave is the perfect home for a bird. It provides shelter from the elements and predators. Scents in the nesting material and droppings will lead the bird back to their own nest. The most important step is to make sure all of the nesting material is cleaned away. Calling a pest control professional to help aid with the clean up and installation is your best bet. Bird droppings carry disease, and the proper protection is a must. Once the nests and droppings are cleaned up, there are several products that can help. The best way to keep smaller birds out of an eave is to block them out with netting. The netting acts as a physical barrier. Treating the beams that the birds are nesting on with the Bird Gel will also help. The Bird Chase Supersonic, an outdoor sound deterrent, is weatherproof and can be programmed for smaller birds. Predator calls signal the birds to move away from danger.

3. Pigeons on a Balcony or patio

Pigeons on a balcony or patio area are a very common problem. These areas provide shelter, and prime nesting locations. Because the birds land indiscriminately on these areas, it is important to choose something that will encompass the patio or balcony. Many people have success with stringing visual deterrents such as Mylar Flash Tape or Scare Eye Diverters. Both use visual scare tactics to frighten birds away. A sound deterrent can also help with this problem; they cover wide areas, and require no maintenance. For table tops and A.C. units, the Repeller, a solar powered unit that uses motion to scare birds, will also work.

4. Geese in yard, making a mess of grass area

Geese are large birds, which create large messes. Absolute Bird Control carries three different products to deter geese. There is a topical grass repellent called Migrate. It is made out of grape extract, and geese can't stand the taste. Applied to a lawn area, geese will realize they do not have a food source and move onto a better spot. There is also a product called the scarecrow which is hooked up to a garden hose. Every time the unit detects motion it will spray out water. Lastly there is a sound deterrent called the Goose Chase Sonic, which uses distress calls of other geese to move geese on. If you only have a few geese any one of the goose products will work. If you have a greater number of geese on the property, you may want to consider using a combination of the products.

5. Woodpeckers destroying the side of a home

Woodpeckers peck into surfaces for a three reasons, to look for food, to attract a mate, and to create a nesting cavity. If woodpeckers have chosen your home to peck at, there are a few successful items you can use. Visual deterrents, such as the Diverters, Scare Eye Balloons, or Mylar Tape work well with a woodpecker problem. These three items have reflective surfaces which woodpeckers will avoid. The Bird Chase Super Sonic can be programmed for woodpeckers. The unit can cover between 1-5 acres, and is weatherproof.

6. Birds sitting on a window sill

Window sills provide a perch, and often shelter. Making the sill un-usable for birds is a good way to stop a bird from choosing your window. Products such as the Bird Spikes or Bird Gel work well in this situation. If you have birds flying into a window, or pecking at a window, we carry “window alerts”. These are decals applied to the window itself, which help birds recognize the surface, and ignore the reflection.

7. Seagulls or Pigeons making a mess on a boat or dock

When a boat owner goes out to their boat, the last thing they want to do is clean bird droppings. The masts and spreaders of boats provide perfect landing spots for these large birds. We have two great products to help boat owners battle a tough bird problem. The Bird Spider is a very simple product, with very successful results. Steel arms bounce in the wind, the motion will frighten birds away. Usually one spider at each end of a boat will be enough to deter birds. The Repeller, the solar powered bird deterrent, can also be used on boats. This unit is ideal for flat surfaces such as canopies or covers. The continuous sweeping motion of the rods will keep the birds at bay.

8. Noisy Birds in a nearby tree

Its 6:00 am and the birds in a nearby tree are at it again! Usually customers are troubled with the noise and mess birds create while in a tree. If they are not nesting you could try the outdoor sound deterrent (the Bird Chase Super Sonic) this emits predator and distress calls, when birds hear these calls their natural instinct is to flee the area. Visual deterrents in the tree such as our Mylar flash tape of scare eye balloons may also help. Fruit growers have success with the Scare Eye Diverters when trying to protect fruit trees.

9. Birds / Ducks in or near a pool

If you are having problems with birds around your pool you may want to consider the outdoor sound deterrent. This devices uses predator and distress calls to scare the birds. It is weatherproof and can be programmed to which bird you are having the problem with. Because you cannot really treat the pool with surface treatments (like spikes or gel) this may be your best option. If the problem is ducks in a pool, the scare eye balloons used in the pool have proven to be successful. The “Scare Eye Balloon” has mock predator eyes printed on the balloon. Ducks will be frighten by the site, and move on.



10. Small Birds nesting in a Garage / barn

Nesting Birds are tough to get rid of. Absolute Bird Control gets calls about birds in a garage or barn area often. Again these structures provide perfect shelter. As with question 2, netting off areas is the best way to keep birds out. Blocking access to the rafters or beams that the birds perch on is a great way to protect these areas. We also carry an indoor sound deterrent called the Bird Chase Super Sonic. This unit uses high frequency ultrasonic noises to deter birds, and can cover up to 6,000 square feet.

Using the information in this list can save you time and money! Visit www.absolutebirdcontrol.com now for information and pricing on any of the products listed. The customer service team is waiting to help you solve your pest bird problem today.

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